Full Answer
The VB is a young platform, so most used examples are still relatively fresh. That shifts the question away from age-related wear and toward two things: how the car was treated, and what was done to it.
**Start with the VIN.** Run it through the NHTSA lookup for open recalls and confirm any outstanding work has been completed. This is free, takes two minutes, and is the single highest-value check available before you spend money on an inspection.
**Get a pre-purchase inspection.** Independent, from someone who knows Subarus, and ideally not the seller's preferred shop. Ask them specifically to look for oil leaks, evidence of hard use, and any signs of accident repair. Gasket and oil leaks are among the more commonly reported issues on the WRX generally, so a careful look underneath is worth the money.
**Establish the modification history honestly.** This matters more than anything else on a car of this age. A modified VB is not automatically a worse buy - a car with a documented, sensible tune from a known tuner, receipts for the work, and an owner who can explain their choices is frequently a better purchase than a stock car whose history is a shrug.
What you are trying to distinguish is a planned build from an accumulated one. Ask what tune is on it and who wrote it. Ask whether the hardware matches the map. Ask to see datalogs if the owner has any - an owner who monitors their car is a good sign in itself. Ask whether the factory parts come with it, because a car sold with its stock intake, exhaust and J-pipe is far more flexible for you later.
**Be alert to the specific red flags.** A car flashed back to stock right before sale, with no explanation of what was on it. An owner who cannot name their tuner. A big turbo build being sold cheaply and quickly. Aftermarket parts with no receipts. Modifications that reach past the stock drivetrain limits - anything making serious torque on a factory transmission has been spending gearbox life to do it.
**Check the drivetrain properly on the test drive.** Work through every gear including reverse. The VB has a notchy 1-2 shift when cold from the factory, so do not mistake that for damage, but a clutch that slips under load or a gearbox that grinds is a real problem. On an SPT, feel for hesitation or harshness, and ask directly whether the car was tuned.
**Warranty position.** Find out how much factory coverage remains and whether the dealer network has any record of modification disputes on that VIN. A tuned car with remaining warranty is a car where you may be inheriting an argument.
One closing thought: if the seller is enthusiastic, organised and happy to answer detailed questions, that tells you more about how the car was treated than any single inspection item. Cars that were cared for tend to be sold by people who care.